Waxing tools:   How to use them.  In order of general use and specific tasks (www.rideandglide.org  12/20/07)

Be sure to check out Waxing Steps.  A step by step list of how to wax using these tools and processes

• Wax bench
  • Any of a number of methods to hold a ski stationary while waxing
  • Works a lot better than suspending ski between two chairs and holding with one hand
  • Wooden forms in the shape of a ski (You can make one out of a 2x6)
  • Tip and tail supports with center clip that connect to bindings
  • Just about required for ironing, scraping, brushing, and buffing.  Very difficult without one
• Iron
  • Used to melt and spread glidewax on skis.
  • Old clothes irons are not as good as a real wax iron, but if it's all you have
  • Be careful, if the wax is smoking the iron is too hot
  • Also used to smooth out kick wax for better adhesion
• Groove tool
  • Used for removing glide wax from the groove(s) on the ski bottom
  • Most scrapers have a rounded edge that can do this.  This works better
• Plastic Scraper
  • Used to remove the bulk of the cooled glide wax from the base
  • Keep them sharp with a bastard file or sand paper at 90 degrees on the bench
• Metal Scraper
  • An alternative to stone grinding.  Exposes fresh base material
  • Best left to an expert
• Brass/copper brush
  • First brush for initial wax removal of med(red/blue) and hard(green/white) waxes. Tip to tail only.  3-4 passes only
  • Can be clogged by soft (yellow/base) waxes, not needed
  • Also used for initial cleaning and structure opening before waxing
• Stiff nylon brush
  • General wax removal.  Second brush after brass/copper.  First brush for soft(yellow/base) waxes or if you don't have brass/copper
  • Can be scrubbed back and forth.  No limit on passes
  • Also final brush for "work hardening" of the base for med and cold conditions
• Horsehair brush
  • Final wax removal.  Third brush after Brass/copper and Nylon.  Tip to tail only  4-5 passes should be enough
  • May clog on soft waxes, be careful
  • Also used for brushing up/removal of pure flouro wax (keep a separate one for pure fluoros)
• Soft nylon brush
  • Used for final polish of pure fluoros.  Use after surface removal with horsehair
• Natural bristle paint brush (2 inch)
  • Used to clean wax dust and scrapings off base of ski. Natural bristle seems to alleviate the static cling of the dust. ($1.00 at Menards)
• Vegetable brush
  • Use in your right hand to scrape the wax dust off the bottom of the brass or horsehair brush.  Thus cleaning it for the next pass ($1.00) at grocery store)
  • Use to judge how much wax is being removed on each pass with the brush.  Thus when you can stop.
• Fibertex  (scotchbrite)
  • White : Non abrasive, use for final polish especially on cold waxes scrub back and forth.  Place on nylon brush to hold flat
  • Blue : Mild abrasive, use for removing hairs from the base after metal scraping also for wax removal if you don't have a brush
  • Green/gray : Aggressive, use to clean up rock ski bases after rock dings.  Follow with blue and then white
  • Tip to tail only for blue, green, or gray
• RotoBrush
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• Riller
  • Used to add structure to your ski bases for water management in wet conditions
  • Many times added on top of stone ground base.  Or by it self if you don't have a ground in structure
• Base skiver
  • A razor blade, held at 90 degrees to the base, used to cut off fine hairs on new bases before base prep
  • Use light pressure, 2 passes tip to tail
• Waxing cork
  • Used for spreading kick wax in the kick zone on classic skis
• Thermo pad
  • Used for buffing in pure fluoro waxes (keep a separate one for pure fluoros)
  • Also used with FastWax Pastewaxes to get them to bond to the ski base.  Generates heat.  Scrub vigorously
• Sand paper
  • Used for roughing up the kick zone before applying kick wax.  Use 150 grit paper on a clean kick zone
• Wax remover
  • Used to remove kick wax from classic skis.  Don't use on glide zones of classic or skate skis
  • Commercial citrus remover work well.  Mineral spirits can be used.

How to do specific tasks

• Scrape
  1. Remove wax from groove and edges with groove tool or scraper while warm
  2. Let wax cool 20 minutes
  3. Scrape with plastic scraper tip to tail one pass
  4. Go back and with overlapping 6 inch strokes cleaning off remaining visible wax.  It may take several full passes and concentrated work in certain areas.  You may have to go down each side of the groove with the narrow side of the scraper because sometimes skis are concave or convex due to wax absorption. This is normal
  5. Watch through clear scraper to view wax coming off.
  6. Stop when you don't see anymore wax peeling off
  7. Wipe clean with paint brush.
• Hot Scrape (aka Purge Waxing)
  1. Iron in soft wax (purple or yellow)
  2. While wax is still warm, but after it has solidified
  3. Remove wax from groove and edges with groove tool or scraper
  4. Scrape with plastic scraper one time tip to tail
  5. Go back and with overlapping 12 inch strokes clean off remaining visible wax
  6. Brush with white nylon (scrub back and forth) tip to tail 2 times
  7. Brush a few more full passes tip to tail
  8. Wipe clean with paint brush.
• Brush (In order listed.)  Skip brass and horse brush if brushing soft waxes (red or yellow)
  • Brass : Brush tip to tail 4-5 times.  Check brush each time to see how much wax is being removed (white residue)  Remove it with the vegetable brush in your other hand by brushing it against the brass brush 2 times.  Stop when you don't see much white residue on the brass brush,  Wipe clean with paint brush.
  • Horsehair : Same regimen as brass brush.  Can also do so 12 inch over lapping strokes. This should remove all the remaining wax.  Wipe clean with paint brush.
  • Stiff Nylon : Scrub back and forth up and down the ski several times. Wipe clean with paint brush.
  • Soft Nylon : Same regimen as Nylon. Wipe clean with paint brush.

              Brush order  (first, second, third)

  • Warm wax (red/yellow): (1)Stiff Nylon, (2)Horsehair
  • Cold wax (blue/green/white): (1)Brass, (2)Horsehair, final (3)Stiff Nylon to work harden base (Final Polish)
  • Solid Fluoros  ( Cera/Jetstream/Flite/Powerjet): One pass with iron, Thermo Pad, Horsehair, Soft Nylon to polish
• Ironing (Ski should be at room temperature)
  1. Set the iron to 100 degrees C (or hot enough to melt the wax without smoking)
  2. Holding the iron with the base straight up, swirl the bar of wax on the base of the iron
  3. Quickly scrub the bar of wax on the base of the ski.  You should be able to cover about 2-3 inches per rub.  Go down both side of the groove
  4. Repeat as you move down the ski.  After 3-4 swirls the iron loads up with excess wax.  Flip the iron over and iron the wax you have rubbed on.  Scrub quickly back and forth to spread the wax over the ski.  You goal is to fill in all the dry spots. Press hard and move quickly.
  5. Continue until the entire ski is covered.  Repeating the wax spreading as necessary as the iron loads up
  6. Now take 3 passes down the entire ski tip to tail at a speed that leaves an inch or two of molten wax behind the iron.  Very soft waxes may leave most of the wax molten for a short time.  Total time for one pass down the ski with the iron is about 8-10 seconds
  7. Let the wax solidify and scrape the groove and the edges
  8. Set the ski aside, base up to slowly cool.   At least 20 minutes.  Overnight is fine if you have the time.
  9. If your so inclined re-iron a second time after at least 10 minutes.  3 passes like above.  Then let cool for the final time.  Scrape and Brush (see above) when cool.
• Solid Fluoro Application
• Storage Waxing
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